With no road-riding experience and just after recovering from an injury, we set off on a motorcycle expedition to one of the countries with the highest motorcycle fatality rates. I invite you to northern Thailand, right by the borders with Myanmar and Laos.
You only live once
Our trip to Thailand took place in January 2023 and it was both the best and the least sensible idea at the same time. We went barely one month after getting our category A motorcycle licenses. My previous riding experience consisted only (and sometimes as much as) riding an old enduro in deep mud, loose sand, on steep climbs and descents — far from asphalt and without three-digit speeds. Michał, on the other hand, had only ridden as much as his riding course allowed.
My license course, just before its completion, was interrupted by a shoulder injury — I broke my collarbone after a spectacular enduro crash. I managed to finish the course with the joint still not fully healed, in the last available exam session in autumn 2022, and one month later I was already on a Honda CB500X, riding on the left side of the road in a foreign country and thinking: “what am I doing here?”
And those exact words open the first episode of our film from this expedition:
1000 km in 4 days — is that not much?
Definitely not. As beginner road riders we were really exhausted. But we had two Scottish companions with us who have been expedition riding for 20 years. Every day they reached the hotel just as tired, satisfied and overwhelmed by the views as we were.
The routes were not long, but mostly very twisty. We usually set off no later than 8:00 a.m. and arrived at our overnight place just before dusk, around 5:00 p.m. We stopped about every 1.5 hours — for coffee, for lunch and for sightseeing. And on our route there was truly a lot to see!
A different side of Thailand
In recent years Thailand has become a popular and increasingly affordable holiday destination. But it is mainly associated with the paradise-like southern part of the country — tourism focused on beautiful islands, heavenly beaches of the Gulf of Thailand, and large tourist centers like Bangkok or Pattaya.
The northern side of Thailand offers something completely different. There you can meet indigenous tribal communities, ride through Arabica coffee plantations, taste even better cuisine infused with Lao and Burmese influences, and reach the most beautiful temples and mountain landscapes.
And those landscapes promise motorcyclists extraordinary experiences — and they keep that promise. Riding through these mountains is not only a test of riding skills…
By motorcycle? Not necessarily!
Below I have gathered the most interesting points on our motorcycle route. You can easily save them as a ready-made plan for your own moto adventure. But the road quality is so good that we also recommend doing it in a rental car. With fewer stops you will cover it much faster and can easily fit, for example, sightseeing in Chiang Rai or at least one full day in Chiang Mai into your trip.
Mekong River
Grab a pen and take notes
Here is a short list of the best places we managed to visit:
- Lake Phayao
- Phu Sang National Park with Thailand’s only warm-water waterfall
- The tri-border of Myanmar and Laos in Mae Sai
- The northernmost point of Thailand on the Myanmar border
- The Mekong River and its stunning bank separating Thailand from Laos
- The Opium Museum in Chiang Saen
- The breathtaking White Temple in Chiang Rai (Wat Rong Khun)
- The Great Temple of the Goddess of Mercy in Chiang Rai (Wat Huay Pla Kun)
- The Doi Nang Non mountain range with Mount Doi Tung shaped like a lying woman and its interesting legend
- Tham Luang Cave (connected to one of the world’s largest cave-rescue diving operations in 2018)
- The Chinese village of Mae Salong founded by former Kuomintang soldiers
- Arabica coffee plantations on former opium fields and, of course, coffee in one of the many flagship cafés along the way
I’ve already been to Thailand — will the north still surprise me?
Yes. Yes. And once again: yes. We had been to Thailand five times, and this was our second time in the north. The first time we crossed the northern mountains on off-road routes during this expedition.
It feels like arriving in a different country and getting the best of Thailand: amazing food, and the kindness and constant smiles of the Thai people. But you won’t find paradise beaches (or any beaches at all) or party hotspots here. If that’s something you can’t imagine a holiday without, this trip won’t be for you.
Don’t take my word for it — see it for yourself
I turned this expedition into a four-episode YouTube series. Besides a taste of the views, I guarantee plenty of emotions, reflections, fun facts about Thailand and a good dose of humor:
🎬 Episode 1 — background of the trip, start from Chiang Mai, Lake Phayao
🎬 Episode 2 — the waterfall, first curves and mountains
🎬 Episode 3 — the tri-border, the northernmost point of Thailand, the Chinese village
🎬 Episode 4 — Chiang Rai, beautiful temples, coffee plantations, a scenic mountain ride
It would mean a lot to me if you left a trace on YouTube. Every subscription, like and comment supports the growth of the channel and gives me wings to do more. And anyone who creates knows how much work it really takes.
In the meantime — see you somewhere on the road! And remember: if you spot us, our cars or our motorcycles, come say hi. We’ll be happy to meet you 🙂
Wide roads,
Kinga